I've heard it a million times: "I don't eat fish. It tastes fishy."

Well, friends, seafood is one of the greatest sources of lean protein around, and if you know how to buy it, store it and prepare it, there's no reason whatsoever why you can't find something to please your palate.

I remember when a new grocery store opened in my old neighborhood, and put out a big ad about a seafood sale. Always on the lookout for some cheap eats, I headed over. When I walked in the front doors, I got a whiff of fishy smell from the seafood department all the way at the back of the store. I went no further.

Remember when you were a kid and went fishing? (Hopefully, you did. A childhood without a fishing trip or three is just a little sad.) When you pulled that flashing perch or wriggling trout out of the water, did it smell fishy? Of course not! It didn't smell of anything but perhaps the water it was pulled from.

A good fishmarket should not smell like its merchandise. On the Kemah waterfront, near Houston, there is a whole street of fishmarkets. It's THE place to go for cheap seafood, since the boats the product comes from dock right outside. Most of the markets are reasonably clean and free of stench, but the last time I was there one of them was filled with a cloud of smell that would curdle the nosehairs. The parking lot was nearly empty. Savvy consumers, those Kemah folk.

That "fishy" smell is produced by decomposition. You wouldn't eat rotten beef, would you? Then don't buy from someone trying to sell you rotten fish.

And if the fishmonger tries to tell you the smell is coming from a floor drain or something similar, do you really want to buy food from someone who can't clean his floors or pour bleach down a drain?

Now I fully understand that many of you live in landlocked states, where your selection is largely limited to freshwater catch. I'd long harbored a strong preference for saltwater fish until my first trip to a fish camp last weekend. Fish camps are apparently a North Carolina mainstay, and the ones near my home sell primarily perch and catfish, although they also have a fair amount of Atlantic seafood.

I hadn't eaten a perch in years, and I'd forgotten how flaky and wonderful they are. I now can't wait for my first opportunity to seize some filets and cook them up myself.

If you just flat can't find good fresh fish, frozen is a perfectly acceptable substitute. I keep a bag of individually frozen filets, usually catfish, in my freezer at all times. It's simple to snag a couple, defrost them and then cook them as I wish.

Speaking of freezing, getting your "catch" home from the store is something that bears a bit of comment. Most good seafood shops will put your fish in a bag, which then is put inside another bag with some crushed ice in it to keep it cold. It's a good idea to carry a small cooler with you to stow your purchase until you get it home. I generally buy fresh seafood at MOST the day before I'm going to cook it, if not the same day.

So now you've got your fish home, what are you going to do with it? Well, covering all the ways to cook fish would be a topic for a cookbook series, so I'll give you my very favorite: blackened.

Blackened seafood is a Cajun favorite (thus the title of this column) that has caught on at just about every seafood joint in the country.

Now, as you know, I'm on a diet. Blackened seafood is usually made with a healthy dose of butter or oil in a heavy (preferably cast iron) skillet.

I've modified the method a bit: I use cooking spray and a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, really the highest heat you should use with most nonstick cookware. Straight black pepper is the traditional seasoning, but I've discovered a seasoning blend from Cajun's Choice that replaces the added fat of the traditional method with a flavor that's just out of this world. It's not too hot, either. (Oh, and while you're getting your seasoning, don't forget the Creole Tartar Sauce. It's incredible.)

Rinse your fish to remove any stray scales or general ooginess, and pat it dry. Set your skillet to heating on medium-high.

Spray one side of the fish with cooking spray, then dose it liberally with your blackened seasoning. Lay it in the heated skillet, seasoned side down, and spray and season the other side.

For catfish fillets, which is what I usually cook by this method, it takes about 3 minutes per side, tops, to render it yummy. You can blacken ANY white-fleshed fish this way, though. Experiment!